Knights, Citadels & Golden Stone: 2 Days in Valletta & Mdina

Beneath Mattia Preti’s gilded barrel-vaulted ceiling lies an intricate floor composed of over 400 inlaid polychrome marble tombstones of knights. Step into the Oratory to behold Caravaggio’s dark, revolutionary masterwork, *The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist*—the only painting he ever signed. High stiletto heels are strictly prohibited to safeguard the marble floor.

Founded in 1837 and housed in a former knight's palazzo beneath vaulted frescoes painted by Giuseppe Calì, grab an outside table on Republic Square. Order traditional flaky *pastizzi* stuffed with spiced pea mash or ricotta, alongside a classic Maltese *ftira* (crusty sourdough bread ring filled with tuna, capers, olives, and Kunserva tomato paste).

Following an extensive multi-million euro restoration, tour the opulent State Rooms to admire Matteo Perez d’Aleccio’s 1565 Great Siege frescoes. Afterwards, head to the Armoury to inspect authentic period battle gear, including the personalized embossed suits of armor belonging to Grand Masters Jean de Valette and Alof de Wignacourt.

Perched quietly atop the Saint Christophe Bastion, this lush neoclassical garden surrounds a Roman-style Doric temple dedicated to Sir Alexander Ball. Walk across the footbridge to the monumental Siege Bell Memorial, erected to honor World War II service, which offers uninterrupted open-sea views looking outward to Fort Ricasoli and the harbor breakwater.

Built in the 1660s on the high tier of the St. Peter & Paul Bastion as a private retreat for Italian knights, the colonnade frames Malta's finest sweeping panorama across the Grand Harbour and the fortified Three Cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua).

Designed in 1752 by Grand Master Manuel Pinto da Fonseca, these nineteen vaulted Baroque warehouses feature timber doors color-coded by the cargo they originally held (blue for seafood, green for produce). Book an outdoor waterside table at *Brown's Kitchen* or *Bistro 516* for fresh catch of the day, Maltese rabbit stew (*stuffat tal-fenek*), and local Marsovin wine while harbor vessels glide by.

Cross the stone-arched bridge traversing the landscaped dry moat to pass under this 1724 Baroque portal designed by French military architect François de Mondion. Look closely at the carved reliefs featuring the coat of arms of Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena and the city's patron saints; cinematic travelers will instantly recognize this as the entry gate to King's Landing in *Game of Thrones*.

Rebuilt by Maltese master architect Lorenzo Gafà following the catastrophic 1693 Sicily earthquake, step inside to marvel at Mattia Preti's dramatic apse fresco depicting the Shipwreck of Saint Paul. Be sure to examine the museum’s rare collection of Albrecht Dürer woodcuts and engravings housed in the former seminary next door.

Mdina’s second-oldest surviving palazzo retains authentic 13th-century Siculo-Norman architectural bones. Curated by former owner Captain Olof Gollcher, its 17 rooms house fascinating collections of antique weaponry, rare silver, 800-year-old manuscripts, and a rare 1797 French decimal watch created during the French Revolution. Note: children under 6 are not admitted.

Head up the spiral stairs to the upper open-air terrace perched directly against Mdina’s northern ramparts, commanding panoramic vistas across half the island towards the Mosta Dome and the Mediterranean. Pair their warm pastizzi, Mediterranean salads, or toasted ftiras with their legendary house-baked double chocolate or hazelnut meringue cake.

Walk 8 minutes out through Mdina Gate into adjoining Rabat to explore Malta’s largest underground Roman and Byzantine burial complex, dating from the 4th to 8th centuries. Navigate the rock-cut galleries to see the famous *agape* tables—circular stone dining tables with sloping borders carved directly from the limestone bedrock, used for ritual funeral meals to honor deceased relatives.

A 10-minute taxi or bus ride (Route 56 or 201) brings you to Malta’s highest point, rising over 250 meters sheer above the crashing sea. Walk the clifftop gravel path near the lonely 1646 St. Mary Magdalene Chapel; the vantage point offers an unobstructed view towards the uninhabited islet of Filfla as the Mediterranean horizon ignites in brilliant amber and rose.